This summer I have finally found a pair of trouser shorts that was PERFECT for me. Isn’t too tight, isn’t too short, doesn’t chafe my thighs, and is really airy. So why not make more?
This is the first time I’m sewing pants of any kind, and this was such a breeze. I didn’t expect it to be this simple, so I made two!
If you hadn’t made shorts before – the hardest part is tracing the pattern of the shorts. These abstract shapes are confusing. In a later post I’ll show you how to make your own pattern, but now we’ll stick to just copy-pasting, no-thinking-just-doing shorts.
This time I’ll use the magic of shape and color to make everything as clear as possible!
Before sewing, mind the needle you’re using for the fabric. The red shorts’ fabric was a stretchy thin denim; which required a thin needle (Stretch 75/11). However, the white shorts’ fabric was a thick denim that needed a thicker needle (Jeans 90/14).
Wrong needles will end in broken needles, or huge holes in your fabric. We don’t want that. 🙂
First, right sides together, sew down the inner thigh and the crotch with seam allowances: 1/4″ overlock stitch, 3/8″ straight stitch. (I also made 2″ long dart on the back pieces, but this is totally optional)
Set that aside.
Take the pocket linings and the pocket front, and sew them wrong sides together (on top of each other) with: overlock stitch of 1/4″, then 1/4″ straight stitch.
Fold it in half. French seam the bottom with 1/8″ stitch, then 1/4″ stitch.
This is a bit tricky to explain – we need to attach the pocket lining to the pocket curve of the front pant. So wrong sides together, pin the fabric to the curve in the pant. Sew 3/8″ away.
We need to turn that over, so to get rid of bulk make a few V snips. Turn over and top stitch that in place.
It’s time to put everything right sides together, and stitch it 1/4″ overlock, 3/8″ str. stitch, 1/2″ str. stitch. This double stitching will keep the sides extra strong.
Moving on to the waistband- take those two pieces of the front waistband, and stitch them together along the top using: 3/8″ str. stitch. Trim 1/4″ from the allowance.
Grab the elastic and the back belt. Find the center fold of the back waistband, put the elastic to one side of that fold.
Connect the two waistbands right sides together, and the elastic with 3/8″ str. stitch. Go over the elastic with a zig-zag to make sure the seams won’t pop.
Sew the elastic to the back waistband using these steps:
And now to the most dangerous part – connecting the waistband to the pants using…. an impossible amount of pins!
I’ve poked myself eight times. Ouch. And then I needed to do that again on the other pair of shorts I was making. Damn you mischievous pins!
I found the easiest way to sew it like a pro is to first sew only one side of the waistband to the pants. Then, take the other unsewn part, flip it inside, so the edges meet the stitches you made before and then top stitch it. I might post a quick tip on this one 😉
Now all you have left to do is to hem them puppies!
♛ EXTRA FANCY ZONE ♛
Cook yourself some delicious back patch pockets!
Here’s a quick recipe using a bias tape made of lining fabric:
Shorts are done! I’m going to enjoy these for the rest of summer 😀
I hope my new method of doodling the pattern helps in some way 🙂
Enjoy your Friday!